Preface:
Don’t ever let me board a tour bus. I
answer to my own schedule and decide where I want to go. I like to find the
odd-ball stuff (yes, I have seen the world’s largest ball of twine). The best
times are when I wander the streets in a foreign city or a little rural town in
the Midwest just to soak in the local vibe — to take a walk and see which way
the wind blows. It is amazing what you can find.
I’ve written sanitized travelogues,
but the nitty-gritty is for me. That’s what makes travel what it is — a unique
set of experiences. Here are some of the funky happenings on a recent road trip
with my wife to Arkansas.
Quirky Road
Trip Stuff
travel memoir
by Gregory E. Larson
The waitress
at the restaurant wore a big smile and stood with her arms wrapped around the
menus. Her western-style get-up-and-go outfit matched the dining room which had
a Country and Western theme, complete with varnished hitching posts and wooden
fence railings, along with a dose of corrugated metal walls. “Do you want to
sit in the restaurant area, or do you want to eat in the bar and watch the
roping exhibition?”
This was the
place that our B&B host had recommended for dinner, Lucky J’s Steakhouse
and Arena, located two miles southeast of Carthage, Missouri. I had no idea
that a full view of the arena was available from the eating establishment. I
should have taken a clue from the parking lot full of giant pick-up trucks and
horse trailers.
“I gotta see
this!” I told her. She directed us to the bar area where stools were lined up
along a countertop/rail that faced a large expanse of glass. Yee-haw! In front
of us was a full view of cowboys twirling their ropes while riding their horses
at full speed towards an escaping steer. The thirty cowboys each took their
turn as a steer was released into the arena.
Giddy-up! In
all our travels, this was a first: a steakhouse meal with a view of cowboys,
horses and steers kicking up dust and manure on the other side of the glass. It
was a real wish-you-were-here moment.
 |
| Jasper County Courthouse - Carthage, Missouri |
On our visit
to downtown Carthage, we had a caffeine fix at the Mother Road Coffeehouse, which
uses the term Mother Road as a
reference to U.S. Highway 66. The storefront faced the town square where the
afternoon sun reflected off the massive stone walls of the courthouse. We
sipped steaming coffee and watched the patrons come and go. I wondered what
stories they could tell, especially when I saw the man with the long hair and
graying beard. The head band and the army fatigues looked right out of the ’60s.
At first I thought he might be a vagrant looking for a warm place. But he
chatted with the staff and the owner, and he sounded more like an educated
businessman. When he left the shop, he walked across the street, unlocked the
driver’s side of a shiny ’55 Chevy, backed out of the diagonal parking stall
and drove off down the street. Untold stories rolled out of sight.
The
perimeter of the square was full of antique shops decorated for Christmas.
Inside the shops, the booths were stuffed with old Santa mugs, bubble ornaments
and decorated Christmas stockings. The best discovery of the day was a tandem
banana-seat bike that conjured up images of a Christmas morning over fifty
years ago — images of kids in pajamas jumping up and down while circling shiny
new bikes parked next to a Christmas tree. I touched the banana seat and gave
the bike a once-over. I couldn’t figure out if the wheelie attachment on the
back of the bike was needed or if it was just for show.
 |
| Banana-seat tandem bicycle with wheelie bar |
Our drive took us to Bentonville, Arkansas, and the quirky stuff just kept popping up. We checked
into the 21C, a trendy museum/hotel filled with unique art. Its location complements
travelers like us who planned to visit the Crystal Bridges Museum in
Bentonville. Contemporary art filled the lobby and vestibules, and spilled out
onto the front plaza as well. Our favorite piece of art was the 1962 Fleetwood Cadillac
Limousine parked near the entry. The paint job looked a little weird so we
approached it, while the hotel doorman followed us to explain the car. His
pride was evident.
 |
| 1962 Fleetwood Cadillac Limousine covered with coins - 21c Hotel art - Bentonville, Arkansas |
“Let me show
you the finish on this piece of art!” he exclaimed as he hurried ahead of us. “Look
closely at all these circles. They’re coins that are glued all over the car!
I’ve been told the artist, Monica Mahoney, wanted to celebrate Sam Walton’s Five
and Dime store and the founding of Walmart. Look here at this Indian-head penny.
It’s the only one we can find.” He pointed to a spot on the hood. “We run the engine
once a day and we take the car through the wash once in a while. This car is
eighteen feet long and it weighs a bunch with all that money glued to it.”
My favorite
art on the inside of the hotel was a screen at the elevator lobby. It was
constructed of fan units removed from old CPU’s from personal computers. All of
the little fans were wired up to a noise sensor. The more noise that I created
caused more fans to turn on. If I clapped or shouted, the whole bunch began
spinning.
The American art at the Crystal Bridges Museum was almost overwhelming. In the middle of a several-hour trek through the museum, we were at the spot where the art began to chronologically switch from traditional to contemporary. We thought our eyes were deceiving us when we noticed an unusual reflection in the museum glass. It appeared as multiple giant Pinocchios marching around a corner of the museum. On closer inspection, we discovered an eight-foot wooden Pinocchio sculpture of Disneyesque appearance, and the surreal moment came when I snapped a picture of my wife standing next to it (she is the one on the right). I realized I was viewing an artistic re-creation of Walt Disney's re-creation of a mythical wooden puppet that comes to life . . . quirky, to say the least.
 |
| Pinocchio and my wife (she is on the right) |
The trip
ended with my having to deal with two pet peeves: Christmas marketing music and
leaf blowers.
The music
was on the speakers in a cozy breakfast/bakery near the hotel. It was early
December, and the standard fare of Rockin’
Around the Christmas Tree and Burl Ives singing Have a Jolly Holly Christmas added to the song blitz. The lyrics
haunted me all the way back to Kansas City.
The leaf
blowers were not hard to miss as we walked the multiple nature trails on the
museum grounds. A small army of landscape workers blasted air through the
motorized tubes to push the fallen leaves off the walkways, street, and grass
edge on the road to the museum. I guessed there were several trillion leaves on
the ground of the 120-acres of woods, so the workers should have plenty of job
security. Their equipment droned for hours, pushing leaves from one side of the grounds to the other, at a museum that touts
its green initiatives.
On the last
morning, I arose early to capture some morning-light photos of the Frank Lloyd
Wright-designed house which was relocated onto the museum grounds (more details
on it in a future blog). The floating mist hung above the Crystal Spring pond in the stillness of the natural setting, but
as I walked closer to the museum and the house, the noise warned me that the leaf blower crew had
already started their work. I approached a vantage point above the
Wright-designed house and spied a worker blowing leaves off the front walk. He stopped,
placed his leaf blower near the front door, then went inside. Frank Lloyd
Wright, nature lover and creator of Organic Architecture had to be rolling in
his grave.
 |
| Leaf blower at entry to Wright-designed house |