Catamaran Race on Lac d'Annecy |
travel memoir
by Gregory E. Larson
by Gregory E. Larson
The gentle waves of pristine water lapped the dock posts and the shore of Lac d’Annecy at the foot of the French Alps. The afternoon breeze was growing with the temperature in the low 70s, although for two people from Kansas (my friend Mary Anne and I), it seemed to be in the slight breeze category. We stood on shore, watching the white, modern water-taxi slowly jostle its way to the edge of the dock, guided by the young, sandy-haired captain of the boat.
In weeks of
anticipation of the chartered boat ride, I’d envisioned a sleek wooden boat of
golden-brown color with a finish of glossy marine varnish. Although, the white taxi
looked very sea-worthy and appeared to have the power to quickly get us around
the lake.
“Allo!” said
the young driver of the boat as he stepped up on the dock and looked at me. The eyes of
the tourists eating at the lakeside café turned our way to watch us board the
taxi. He reached out his hand and spoke with a French accent. “My name is Thibault.
And your name?”
With the
exotic setting in the Alps, I was very tempted to say, “Bond . . . James Bond.”
But my senses got the better of me. “I’m Greg . . . and this is my friend Mary
Anne.”
Author and Mary Anne in the Water Taxi |
Thibault
responded, “Oui, I can show you some
points of interest around the lake, but tell me if there is something specific
you want to see.”
“I’m an
artist. I paint watercolors, and I’d like to photograph a castle, chateau, or
church along the shore to use as my inspiration to paint. I’d also like to get
some good mountain backgrounds as well.”
Abbaye de Talloires at the foot of the Alps |
“Yes,” said Thibault,
“We can do that. Let’s go.” We settled in the boat and pulled away from the
resort of Abbaye de Talloires. It was
worthy of a movie setting. The deep water reflected colors of turquoise and
emerald green. As a backdrop to the old resort, the deciduous trees were just
beginning to turn their fall colors. Behind them, upwards on the mountain
slopes stood the conifers of deep forest green. Capping the view at the sky
were the massive cliffs which seemed to announce to the world: Here we stand
guard at the west end of the European Alps! Artistic views appeared at every
turn on the lake.
The artful setting
did not go unnoticed by impressionist and cubist painter, Paul Cezanne. In the summer
of 1896 he stayed at the Abbaye,
which had originally been the home of a group of Benedictine Monks. It was
abandoned by the monks after the French Revolution, and in 1862 the portion of
the building that was built in 1681 became a hotel.
Cezanne painted many scenes
around Lac d’Annecy in both
watercolor and oils. His most famous painting of that summer, Lac d’Annecy, was a view of the Chateau de Duingt, which is the castle
located across the lake from the Abbaye.
This was a time when Cezanne cultivated his cubist ideas of making geometric
forms out of what he saw in his surroundings.
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Paul Cezanne's 1896 painting of Chateau de Duingt on Lac d'Annecy |
Chateau de Duingt on Lac d'Annecy |
Thibault steered the boat across the small end of the lake to give us a good view of the famous Chateau de Duingt. He slowed the engine and allowed me to snap several pictures.
“I am told that a family with three children live in the castle. For income they have some of the surrounding buildings set up as a bed and breakfast hotel, and they rent out the grounds for large parties for weddings and family events.”
We followed the western shore and stopped at spots to view interesting church spires or large chateaus, but I wasn’t pleased with any of the pictures. The mountains were so huge and once I zoomed on the buildings, the peaks were lost. Thibault steered the boat around a peninsula and the large north end of the lake came into view. Voila, a sailboat race of small catamarans was in progress. That’s when my creative juices started to flow.
I turned and looked at Thibault, then pointed to the boats. “We must go there. I want to take as many sailboat pictures as possible. Try to stop on the south side of the race so the sun will be good for the photos.”
Sailing on Lac d'Annecy 2018 original watercolor by Gregory E. Larson |
The sailboats were bobbing in the water and the participants were shouting and laughing at each other in French. Was this catamaran race smack-talk? I couldn’t make out the words, but there were spirited exchanges of shouting between the boats. I guessed they were saying things like, “Get out of the way you waterlogged bucket! We’re coming through!” I felt like I was in a virtual carnival ride, with the wind, water, and the colorful sails moving at a rapid pace.
Focused on sailboats |
I smiled with a thumbs-up to Mary Anne and realized she was taking a picture of me taking pictures of the sailboats. In that moment, I was convinced that the boat ride on the lake had made the entire trip to France worthwhile.
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Les Petits Catamarans 2018 original watercolor by Gregory E. Larson |